Makalu is one of the harder and technical eight-thousanders, and is considered one of the most difficult mountains in the world to climb. Makalu expeditions are difficult because the mountain is notorious for its steep pitches and knife-edged ridges that make the climbing Makalu very open to the elements. The final ascent of the summit pyramid involves technical rock climbing. While there have been many a Makalu expedition, it is the only Nepalese 8,000m peak which has yet see a success in climbing Makalu in true winter conditions.
At 8463 metres, Makalu is the 5th highest mountain in the world and is located just 20 kilometers from Mount Everest in the Makalu Barun National Park, which is a natural wonder in its own.
Mount Makalu was first climbed on May 15, 1955 in by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy of a French Makalu Expedition led by Jean Franco. Franco, G. Magnone and Sirdar Gyaltsen Norbu summitted the next day, followed by Bouvier, S. Coupe, Leroux and A. Vialatteon the 17th. The French team climbed Makalu by the north face and northeast ridge, via the saddle between Makalu and Kangchungtse (the Makalu-La), establishing the standard route.
Good To Know
Asian Trekking is a Nepali expedition operating company established 36 years ago. According to Paragraph 26 of the Tourism Act (2035), no foreign expedition teams or companies are allowed to provide expedition services in Nepal directly and any foreign company must work through a Nepali company licensed by the Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation, Government of Nepal. As such, Nepali companies are the ones that provide all the legal, administrative, logistical, guiding and support services in Nepal, while also being legally responsible for the safe and responsible conduct of the expeditions. Booking through foreign expedition companies naturally makes the cost to the customer higher due to the extra layer of administration and profit margins, without necessarily adding any extra value.