Dear Friends,
Namaste and warm greetings from Nepal.
As I did previuos years, in this newsletter I again attempt to answer questions such as how many people have climbed Mt. Everest? How many climbers came to Nepal (and Tibet)? Where in the world did most climbers come from? How much money did Mountaineering bring into the Nepalese economy? Etc.
How Many Climbing Teams And How Many Climbers Came To Nepal During The Spring 2012 Climbing Season?
A total of 3005 foreign climbers came to Nepal in the spring of 2012. Of these, 2225 mountaineers climbed NMA Peaks and 780 Visited Expedition Peaks.
As a simple rule of thumb, the Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation manages 8000m and 7000m peaks while NMA manages the 33 popular peaks ranging from 5587m to 6654m.
How Many People Climbed Mt. Everest This Year (Spring 2012)?
This year’s spring total has seen 400 more ascents from Nepal of which 208 were new summiteers. Similarly, there were 165 summits from Tibet of which 99 are new summiteers and the rest were repeat summiteers.
30 permits were issued for foreign Mt. Everest expedition teams with 325 climber, 358 High Altitude Climbing Sherpas (HAS) and 230 kitchen staffs (at Base Camp and Camp 2). Amazingly, out of 325 foreign climbers 178 summited (55%) and 358 HAS, 222 summited (62%) Mt.Everest of this Climbing Season from Nepal side.
How Many People Have Climbed Mt. Everest Until Today?
Between 1953 and 2011, the total number of ascents was 5584 by 3448 individuals (some having summited more than once).
Adding the totals from this year (Spring 2012) the total number of ascent of Mt. Everest until today is 6149, whereas the actual number of persons having summited Mt. Everest is 3755 till date.
What Is The Economic Contribution Of Mt. Everest Expeditions (Nepal Side) In The Spring 2012 Climbing Season:
I estimate that a total of 11.6 Million US dollars was contributed from Mt. Everest expeditions to Nepal’s Economy.
The following are the estimated economic contributions from south side of Mt. Everest in this climbing season of Spring 2012:
TABLE NO.1: Economic Contribution Of Mt. Everest Expeditions On South Side.
| S.No. | Item | US$ | Nepalese Rupees |
| 1 | Total Mt. Everest Climbing ·Permit Fee from 30··Foreign Exp. Teams | 3,272,000/ | 26,46,50,065/ |
| 2 | Total porter wages from Lukla to EBC -·9,660·porter loads of 30kgs each load | 1,442,344/ | 11,53,87,500/ |
| 3 | Total porter wages from B.C. to Lukla- 5,313 porter loads of 30kgs each load | 788,425/ | 6,39,54,000/ |
| 4 | HAS- Equipment allowances, wages, climbing bonus, summit bonus, insurance, etc | 1,405,720/ | 11,24,57,563/ |
| 5 | BC and C2 kitchen staffs- Equipment allowances, wages, insurance etc. | 645,890/ | 5,16,71,233/ |
| 6 | Flights: Ktm/Lukla Or Shyangboche/Ktm for passengers and luggage, helicopter flight, hotels in Ktm& on the way, transfers, meals etc······· | 946,597/ | 7,57,27,760/ |
| 7 | Insurance for porters, food purchase, kitchen utensils, drinks, EBC fuels, solar panels & generators for lighting, charges, fresh supplies | 530,603/ | 4,24,48.240/ |
| 8 | Sleeping tents, dining tents, kitchen & storage tents, toilet tents, mattresses, chairs, tables, heaters etc. | 518,300/ | 4,14,64,000/· |
| 9 | H.A. foods, HA fuel, oxygen bottles, masks, regulators, climbing equipments, common climbing equipments, ice fall route fixing charges, route fixing charges above C1 to summit, EBC HRA Aid post fee, SPCC garbage management & disposal fee etc. | 2,088,140/ | 16,70,51,200/ |
| 10 | Total economic contribution from Mt. Everest Expedition teams in one climbing season of Spring 2012 | 11,638,019/ | 93,10,41,520/ |
Mountaineering Expedition Peaks:
The Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation issued a total of 104 permits to Mountaineering teams to various peaks in this spring season of 2012.
Also, there were 3 Nepalese Everest Expedition teams with 16 climbers and 15 HAS going above Base Camp and two Nepalese teams of 9 climbers on Mt. Api (7132m) and Baden Powell Peak (UrkemaChuli 5890m). Nepalese teams do not have to pay peak permit fees, if the Cabinet of Ministers sanctions their expedition.
Details of the different expedition teams, number of climbers and the royalty fees collected.
TABLE NO. 2: Different Expedition’s Permit Fees.
| Sn. | Mountain | Name of Expedition | No. of Member | Royalty ($) | Royalty (Rs.) |
| 1 | Gaugiri( 6110 m.) | Shangri-La Nepal Gaugiri Expedition 2012 | 7 | 1000 | 87400 |
| 2 | HimlungHimal( 7126 m.) | EH HimlungHimalExpidition2012 | 6 | 2800 | 239400 |
| 3 | ArnikoChuli( 6039 m.) | Mustang AranikiChuli Expedition 2012 | 8 | 1200 | 102816 |
| 4 | Saribung( 6346 m.) | Saribung Expedition 2012 | 7 | 1000 | 83730 |
| 5 | BarunTse( 7129 m.) | Baruntse Expedition 2012 | 2 | 1800 | 150768 |
| 6 | Makalu I ( 8463 m.) | Seven Summit Makalu Expedition 2012 | 1 | 5000 | 419050 |
| 7 | Nuptse( 7855 m.) | International Nuptse Expedition 2012 | 7 | 4000 | 335160 |
| 8 | AmaDablam( 6812 m.) | HG AmaDablam Expedition 2012 | 4 | 1600 | 134064 |
| 9 | BarunTse( 7129 m.) | Seven Summits Adventure Baruntse Expedition2012 | 2 | 1800 | 150822 |
| 10 | Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) ( 8848 m.) | Light of World Peace (World Record) Mt. Everest Expedition 2012 | 3 | 0 | 0 |
| 11 | Thorang Peak ( 5751 m.) | Himalayan Rock Thorang Peak Expedition 2012 | 2 | 500 | 41990 |
| 12 | Annapurna 4 ( 7525 m.) | International Annapurna 4 Expedition 2012 | 3 | 2800 | 232344 |
| 13 | AmaDablam( 6812 m.) | Italian AmaDablam Expedition Spring 2012 | 6 | 1900 | 157662 |
| 14 | Salbachum( 6707 m.) | Seven Summit Salbachum Exp. 012 | 2 | 1200 | 99144 |
| 15 | Gyajinkang( 7038 m.) | Austrian Gyajinkang Expedition 2012 | 9 | 3800 | 312360 |
| 16 | AmaDablam( 6812 m.) | Peak Promotion -AmaDablam Expedition 2012 | 5 | 1800 | 149364 |
| 17 | Manaslu( 8163 m.) | Italian Manaslu Expedition Spring 2012 | 11 | 16000 | 1308320 |
| 18 | Gyajinkang( 7038 m.) | Love Gyajinkang | 2 | 1800 | 148140 |
| 19 | Dhampus( 6012 m.) | Kenjiro Hidaka Dhampus Peak Expedition 2012 | 1 | 400 | 32920 |
| 20 | AmaDablam( 6812 m.) | USA Expedition To Mt. AmaDablam2012 | 7 | 2000 | 164600 |
| 21 | Thapa Peak ( 6012 m.) | Newroute | 12 | 2000 | 163540 |
| 22 | Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) ( 8848 m.) | HMI Everest Expedition 2012 | 10 | 100000 | 8177000 |
| 23 | Saribung( 6346 m.) | FBA Saribung Expedition I 2012 | 3 | 600 | 49062 |
| 24 | AmaDablam( 6812 m.) | Moscow Team MIE Expedition | 6 | 1900 | 155325 |
| 25 | Tsartse( 6398 m.) | German Tsartse Expedition 2012 | 4 | 700 | 57225 |
| 26 | AmaDablam( 6812 m.) | 2012 IMG AmaDablamExpedition | 7 | 2000 | 163500 |
| 27 | BarunTse( 7129 m.) | Blue Mountain BarunTseExpedition | 8 | 3400 | 278698 |
| 28 | AmaDablam( 6812 m.) | Intl; AmaDablam Expedition 2012 | 10 | 2900 | 237075 |
| 29 | Manaslu( 8163 m.) | Seven Summit Manaslu Exp. 2012 Spring | 13 | 19000 | 1552250 |
| 30 | Manaslu( 8163 m.) | Intl’ Mt. Manaslu Expedition 2012 | 7 | 10000 | 817500 |
| 31 | Manaslu( 8163 m.) | Amical Alpine Manaslu Expedition 2012 | 8 | 11500 | 940125 |
| 32 | Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) ( 8848 m.) | Intl’ Everest Expedition Spring 2012 | 11 | 110000 | 8963900 |
| 33 | Lhotse ( 8516 m.) | International Summit Climb Lhotse Expedition 2012 Spring | 11 | 16000 | 1304000 |
| 34 | Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) ( 8848 m.) | International Summit Climb Everest Expedition 2012 Spring | 9 | 90000 | 7335000 |
| 35 | Dhaulagiri I ( 8167 m.) | Austrian Dhaulagiri Expedition | 7 | 10000 | 814900 |
| 36 | Saribung( 6346 m.) | Ken Noguchi Expedition To Mt. Saribung | 2 | 500 | 40750 |
| 37 | Kanchanjunga (Main) ( 8586 m.) | Seven Summit KanchanjangaExped. 012 Spring | 10 | 14500 | 1181750 |
| 38 | Lhotse ( 8516 m.) | Seven Summit Lhotse Expd. 012 Spring | 10 | 14500 | 1181750 |
| 39 | Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) ( 8848 m.) | Eco- Everest Expedition 2012 | 15 | 150000 | 12225000 |
| 40 | Makalu I ( 8463 m.) | Intl’ Makalu Expedition Spring 2012 | 9 | 13000 | 1059500 |
| 41 | Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) ( 8848 m.) | High Adventure Expeditions Everest 2012 | 11 | 110000 | 9029900 |
| 42 | Annapurna 4 ( 7525 m.) | 2012 IMG Annapurna IV Expedition | 6 | 3800 | 308180 |
| 43 | Dhaulagiri I ( 8167 m.) | IBS-K&K Pneu Dhaulagiri Expedition 2012 | 7 | 10000 | 814900 |
| 44 | Dhaulagiri I ( 8167 m.) | Spanish Dhaulagiri I Expedition 2012 | 10 | 14500 | 1171600 |
| 45 | Dhampus( 6012 m.) | Discover Dhampus Expedition 2012 | 2 | 500 | 40400 |
| 46 | Nuptse( 7855 m.) | Nuptse East RidgeExpedition2012 | 3 | 2800 | 227080 |
| 47 | Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) ( 8848 m.) | International Everest Expedition 2012 | 8 | 80000 | 6488000 |
| 48 | Lhotse ( 8516 m.) | Intl’ Lhotse Expedition Spring 2012 | 15 | 22000 | 1784200 |
| 49 | Kanchanjunga (Main) ( 8586 m.) | Kanchanjunga Spring Expedition 2012 | 7 | 10000 | 815000 |
| 50 | Dhampus( 6012 m.) | Diamir Dhaulagiri Round Expedition 2012 | 7 | 1000 | 80800 |
| 51 | Lhotse ( 8516 m.) | Shangri-la Lhotse Expedition-2012 | 8 | 11500 | 337135 |
| 52 | Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) ( 8848 m.) | Mountain Experience Everest Expedition 2012 | 10 | 100000 | 8186000 |
| 53 | Nuptse( 7855 m.) | Peak Promotion WMS Nuptse Expedition 2012 | 12 | 6500 | 529685 |
| 54 | Lhotse ( 8516 m.) | Himalayan Experience-Lhotse I Expedition -12 | 12 | 17500 | 1414000 |
| 55 | Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) ( 8848 m.) | Himalayan Experience Everest Expedition I 2012 | 15 | 150000 | 12279000 |
| 56 | Lhotse ( 8516 m.) | Himalayan Experience – Lhotse II Expedition – 12 | 15 | 22000 | 1777600 |
| 57 | Nuptse( 7855 m.) | Himalayan Experience – Nuptse Expedition – 12 | 15 | 8000 | 646400 |
| 58 | Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) ( 8848 m.) | Peak Freak Everest Expedition 2012 | 14 | 140000 | 11421200 |
| 59 | Manaslu( 8163 m.) | Adventure Consultants Manaslu Expedition 2012 | 7 | 10000 | 808000 |
| 60 | BarunTse( 7129 m.) | Mountain Experience – Baruntse Expedition – 2012 | 5 | 2600 | 211874 |
| 61 | AmaDablam( 6812 m.) | Himalayan Ascent Amadablam Expedition 2012 | 6 | 1900 | 153520 |
| 62 | Lhotse ( 8516 m.) | Czech Lhotse 2012 | 6 | 9000 | 734220 |
| 63 | Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) ( 8848 m.) | BBE/SSA/RMI Everest Expedition Spring 2012 | 13 | 130000 | 10523500 |
| 64 | Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) ( 8848 m.) | Seoul National University Everest Exp. 012 Spring | 13 | 130000 | 10595000 |
| 65 | Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) ( 8848 m.) | Satori Adventure Everest Expedition South Face 2012 | 12 | 120000 | 9696000 |
| 66 | Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) ( 8848 m.) | H.G. Everest Expedition 2012 | 11 | 110000 | 8963900 |
| 67 | Dhaulagiri I ( 8167 m.) | Italian Dhaulagiri Expedition Spring 2012 | 14 | 20500 | 1672390 |
| 68 | Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) ( 8848 m.) | 2012 Korea Chungnam Friendship Everest Expedition | 15 | 150000 | 12279000 |
| 69 | Lhotse ( 8516 m.) | 2012 Korea Chungnam Friendship Lhotse Expeditions | 7 | 10000 | 818600 |
| 70 | Thorang Peak ( 5751 m.) | Dawn Cooper Thorang Peak Spring 2012 | 1 | 400 | 32624 |
| 71 | Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) ( 8848 m.) | Adventure Consultants Everest Expedition 2012 | 11 | 110000 | 8973800 |
| 72 | Annapurna 1 ( 8091 m.) | Seven Summit Annapurna Intl. Exp. 2012 Spring | 8 | 11500 | 922875 |
| 73 | Annapurna 1 ( 8091 m.) | 14 th Challenge Intl. Annapurna Expedition 2012 Spring | 14 | 20500 | 1645125 |
| 74 | Dhaulagiri I ( 8167 m.) | NHK Dhaulagiri Expedition 2012 | 4 | 8000 | 646400 |
| 75 | Tawoche( 6501 m.) | Khumbu Express II 2012 | 2 | 1200 | 97320 |
| 76 | Api( 7132 m.) | Team GiriGiri Boys Mt. Api Expedition 2012 | 3 | 0 | 0 |
| 77 | Thorang Peak ( 5751 m.) | Thorang Peak Spring Expedition 2012 | 3 | 600 | 48318 |
| 78 | Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) ( 8848 m.) | 100%Brumotti Everest Expedition Spring 2012 | 4 | 49000 | 3959000 |
| 79 | Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) ( 8848 m.) | Snow Lion Everest Expedition 2012 | 7 | 70000 | 5631500 |
| 80 | Lhotse ( 8516 m.) | Snow Lion Lhotse Expedition 2012 | 7 | 10000 | 804500 |
| 81 | Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) ( 8848 m.) | 2012 IMG Everest Expedition III | 11 | 110000 | 8855935 |
| 82 | Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) ( 8848 m.) | 2012 IMG Everest Expedition II | 12 | 120000 | 9657120 |
| 83 | Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) ( 8848 m.) | 2012 IMG Everest Expedition I | 12 | 120000 | 9657120 |
| 84 | Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) ( 8848 m.) | Himalayan Experience Everest Expedition 2012 | 15 | 150000 | 11917500 |
| 85 | Nuptse( 7855 m.) | Sangri-La Nuptse Expedition S2012 | 6 | 3800 | 304000 |
| 86 | Thorang Peak ( 5751 m.) | Pierre CallicoThorang Peak Expedition 2012 | 1 | 400 | 32084 |
| 87 | Kumbhakarna (Jannu) ( 7710 m.) | Team Kumbhakarna2012 | 5 | 3600 | 286560 |
| 88 | Annapurna 1 ( 8091 m.) | BBVA Carlos SoriaFontan Annapurna 1 Expedition 2012 | 7 | 10000 | 798500 |
| 89 | Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) ( 8848 m.) | Indian Army Women Mt.Everest Expedition Spring 2012 | 15 | 150000 | 12127500 |
| 90 | Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) ( 8848 m.) | AAI-Everest Expedition-S 2012 | 10 | 100000 | 8080000 |
| 91 | Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) ( 8848 m.) | TNF- Everest Expedition-S 2012 | 7 | 70000 | 5607000 |
| 92 | Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) ( 8848 m.) | TNF Everest West Ridge Expedition 2012 | 2 | 40000 | 3333725.5 |
| 93 | Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) ( 8848 m.) | Expedition Himalaya Everest 2012 | 13 | 130000 | 10543000 |
| 94 | Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) ( 8848 m.) | Eddie Bauer West Ridge Commemorative Expedition 2012 | 4 | 33000 | 2687239 |
| 95 | Baden Powell Scout Peak (Urkema Peak) # ( 5890 m.) | III Baden Powell Scout Peak Expedition 2012 | 6 | 0 | 0 |
| 96 | Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) ( 8848 m.) | Giripremi’sPune Everest Expedition 2012 | 15 | 150000 | 11435625 |
| 97 | Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) ( 8848 m.) | Runner Sanjay Pandit’s – Peace Journey from Sworgadwari to Mt Everest Expedition 2012 | 1 | Free | 0 |
| 98 | Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) ( 8848 m.) | Lumbuni to Mt. Everest Youth Peace Expedition 2012 | 12 | Free | 0 |
| 99 | Saribung( 6346 m.) | Saribung Expedition 2012 | 2 | 500 | 39725 |
| 100 | Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) ( 8848 m.) | 2012 Chilean Everest Expedition | 12 | 120000 | 9612000 |
| 101 | AmaDablam( 6812 m.) | Russian AmaDablam Expedition 2012 | 2 | 1200 | 95520 |
| 102 | Panpoche 1 ( PangPhunch ) ( 6620 m.) | Expedition Samdo2012 | 6 | 1900 | 150955 |
| 103 | Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) ( 8848 m.) | Jagged Globe Everest Expedition 2012 | 8 | 80000 | 6409600 |
| 104 | BarunTse( 7129 m.) | Australian BarunTse2012 | 4 | 2400 | 187200 |
| Total Royalty | 3707000 | 299434358.5 |
TABLE NO. 3: Numbers And Nationality Of Climbers Who Summited Mt. Everest In Spring 2012 From South Side Of Mt. Everest (Nepal).
| Name of Country | Number of Climbers Summited |
| Nepal | 222 |
| India | 45 |
| America | 40 |
| United Kingdom | 19 |
| Canada | 10 |
| Chili | 10 |
| Germany | 5 |
| Australia | 4 |
| Argentina | 4 |
| South Korea | 3 |
| Bangladesh | 3 |
| New Zealand | 3 |
| Mongolia | 3 |
| Iran | 2 |
| Ireland | 2 |
| Latvia | 2 |
| Spain | 2 |
| Norway | 2 |
| Ecuador | 2 |
| Switzerland | 1 |
| Georgia | 1 |
| Czech Republic | 1 |
| Bosnia-Herzgovina | 1 |
| Costa Rica | 1 |
| Mexico | 1 |
| Poland | 1 |
| Sweden | 1 |
| Tanzania | 1 |
| France | 1 |
| Cyprus | 1 |
| South Africa | 1 |
| Singapore | 1 |
| Finland | 1 |
| Austria | 1 |
| Manoglia | 1 |
| Japan | 1 |
For the detail name list of the 2012 Spring Mt. Everest Summiteers:please click here.··
Tibet Expeditions On Mt. Everest And Other 8000m Peaks- Spring 2012:
This climbing season, on the Tibet side of Mt. Everest, there were 14 teams with 78 foreign climber, 74 HAS, 56 Chinese Exp. Members and guides and 15 Chinese (incl. Tibetan) rope fixing team members. Among them 107 foreign and Chinese (incl. Tibetan) climbers and 58 High Altitude Sherpas reached the top of Mt. Everest from North Side this Spring Season.
Similarly 7 foreign climbers and 7 Sherpas summited Mt. Cho-oyu and none on Mt. Shishapangma this Spring season.
What Other Expedition Peaks Were Climbed This Spring 2012?
Beside Everest Expeditions, there were 69 foreign Expedition teams to 26 other mountains. Out of these peaks, only 11 were successfully summited.
| S.no | Mountain Name | Total Summiters | Male | Female |
| 1 | Mt. Everest (8,848)m. | 400 | 365 | 35 |
| 2 | Mt. Lhotse (8,516)m. | 24 | 20 | 4 |
| 3 | Mt. Makalu (6,463)m. | 19 | 17 | 2 |
| 4 | Mt. Manaslu 98,163)m. | 15 | 14 | 1 |
| 5 | Mt. ArnikoChuli (6039)m. | 11 | 9 | 2 |
| 6 | Mt. Annapurna (8091)m. | 11 | 10 | 1 |
| 7 | Mt. Dhaulagiri (8,167)m. | 8 | 7 | 1 |
| 6 | Baruntse (7,129)m. | 6 | 5 | 1 |
| 7 | Mt. Baden Pawell Scout Peak | 5 | 5 | 0 |
| 8 | Mt. Amadablam (6,812)m. | 4 | 3 | 1 |
| 9 | Mt. Thapa Peak (6,012)m. | 3 | 3 | 0 |
| 10 | Mt. Nuptse (7,855)m. | 2 | 1 | 1 |
| 11 | Mt. Saribung (6,346)m. | 2 | 1 | 1 |
| Total Climber’s | 510 | 460 | 50 |
Similarly there were two Nepalese teams on Api Himal (7132m) 3 members and Baden Powell Peak (Urkima Chuli 5890m) 6members.
To Summarize: This spring the Expedition Peaks of Nepal (besides Mt. Everest) saw a total of 453 foreign climbers, plus 267 HAS and 260 kitchen staffs. My best estimate is that these teams had approximately 9531 porter loads to their respective Base Camps and 5910 porter loads from Base Camp back down to the road head or airport.
On Mt. Everest, 53 per cent of the climbers were Nepalese (High Altitude Climbing Sherpas) while 47 per cent were foreign climbers. However, on other Expedition Peaks, 37% of the climbers were Nepalese and 63 per cent were foreign climbers.
Economic Contribution From These Expedition Teams In Climbing Season Of Spring 2012:
I estimate that a total of 6.98 Million US dollars was contributed from various other mountaineering expedition peaks to Nepal’s Economy.
The following is my estimate of the economic contributions that expedition teams (other than Mt. Everest) provide in this climbing season of Spring 2012.
TABLE NO. 5: Economic Contribution From Other Mountaineering Peaks In Spring Season 2012
| SN | Item | US$ | Nepalese Rupees |
| 1 | The total peak permit collection from these peaks | 435,000 | 3,47,84,293:5 |
| 2 | Total porter wages to BC -·9531 porter loads ·and back from BC-·5910 porter loads·· | 1,595,055 | 12,76,04,400 |
| 3 | HAS- Equipment allowances, remuneration, climbing bonus, summit bonus, insurance etc· | 1,033,986 | 8,27,18,862 |
| 4 | BC and C2 kitchen staffs equipment allowances, remuneration, allowances, insurance etc. | 731,000 | 5,84,80,000 |
| 5 | Flights: For passengers and luggage, helicopter flight, transportations, ·hotels in Ktm& on the way, transfers, meals, insurance for porters, food purchase, kitchen utensils, drinks, EBC fuels, solar panels & generators for lighting, charges, fresh supplies, EBC tents, dining tents, kitchen & store tents, toilet tents, mattresses, chairs, tables, heaters etc. | 1,735,400 | 13,88,32,00: |
| 6 | H.A. foods, HA fuel, oxygen bottles, masks, regulators, climbing equipments, common climbing equipments, ice fall route fixing charges, route fixing charges above C1 to summit, EBC HRA Aid post fee, SPCC garbage management & disposal fee etc· | 1,454,500 | 11,63,60,000 |
| Total economic contribution from other Mountaineering Peaks Expedition teams in one climbing season of Spring 2012 | 6,984,941 | 55,87,95,280 |
NMA Climbing Peaks:
Total permits issued by Nepal Mountaineering Association to NMA Peak climbing teams to various NMA peaks are 519 climbing teams with total 2225 foreign climbers in Spring 2012.These teams recruited 2540 persons as climbing guides, assistant guides, cooks and kitchen staffs and I estimate approximately 16,850 porters to Base Camp and 10,785 porter loads back from Base Camp.
On NMA peaks, the highest number of climbers were from the UK with 394 climbers, second were Germans with 336 climber, third Australian 218, fourth France 212 and fifth USA with 205 climbers. This year 34 per cent of Climbers were Nepalese, whereas 66 per cent were foreign climbers.
TABLE NO. 6: NMA Climbing Peaks Records From January 1,2012 To July 2,2012
Nepal Mountaineering Association Peak Climbing Record from January 1, 2012 to July 02, 2012.
| S.N. | Peak Name | Team | Pax | Royalty Amount (US$) |
| 1 | Mt.Cholatse | 4 | 7 | 2,000.00 |
| 2 | Mt.KyazoRi | 8 | 15 | 4,000.00 |
| 3 | Mt.Nirekha | 1 | 7 | 500.00 |
| 4 | MT.LangsisaRi | 1 | 3 | 500.00 |
| 5 | Mt.Larkya Peak | 3 | 13 | 1,500.00 |
| 6 | Mt. ChhukungRi | 2 | 13 | 1,000.00 |
| 7 | Mt.Yala Peak | 10 | 41 | 5,000.00 |
| 8 | Hiunchuli | 1 | 3 | 350.00 |
| 9 | Singuchuli | 2 | 9 | 740.00 |
| 10 | Mera | 104 | 418 | 39,565.00 |
| 11 | Kwagde | 2 | 3 | 700.00 |
| 12 | Chulu West | 11 | 28 | 3,850.00 |
| 13 | Chulu East | 18 | 57 | 6,840.00 |
| 14 | Island | 235 | 1100 | 91,475.00 |
| 15 | Pharchamo | 18 | 72 | 7,120.00 |
| 16 | Lobuje | 59 | 310 | 23,610.00 |
| 17 | Ramdung | 5 | 19 | 1,975.00 |
| 18 | Pisang | 7 | 28 | 2,690.00 |
| 19 | TharpuChuli | 11 | 32 | 3,765.00 |
| 20 | GanjalaChuli | 8 | 14 | 2,800.00 |
| 21 | Pokhalde | 6 | 20 | 2,220.00 |
| 22 | Mardi Himal | 2 | 11 | 860.00 |
| 23 | Paldor | 1 | 2 | 350.00 |
| Total | 519 | 2225 | 203,410.00 |
Economic Contribution By NMA Peaks In This Climbing Season Of Spring 2012:
I estimate that a total of 7.9 Million US dollars was contributed from 33 NMA peaks to Nepal’s Economy
The following are the estimated economic contributions from the NMA Peak climbing teams in this climbing season of Spring 2012:
TABLE NO.7: Economic Contributions From The NMA Peak Climbing Teams.
| SN | Item | US$ | Nepalese Rupees |
| 1 | Total permit fee collection·from·519 climbing teams | 203,410 | 1,62,72,800 |
| 2 | The total expenses on porter up to Base Camp and back from Base Camp | 2,989,600 | 23,91,68,000 |
| 3 | HAS- Equipment allowances, remuneration, climbing allowances, insurance etc· | 815,500 | 6,52,40,000 |
| 4 | Camp staffs, cooks, kitchen staffs & helpers, remuneration, allowances, insurance etc. | 825,000 | 6,60,00,000 |
| 5 | Flights: For passengers and luggage, helicopter flight, transportations, airport tax, hotels in Ktm& on the way, transfers, meals, insurance for porters, food purchase, kitchen utensils, drinks, fuels, solar panels, charges, fresh supplies, BC tents, dining tents, kitchen, toilet tents, mattresses, chairs, tables·etc | 1,994,500 | 15,95,60,000 |
| 6 | H.A. foods, HA fuel, oxygen bottles, masks, regulators, climbing equipments, common climbing equipments, SPCC garbage management & disposal fee etc | 1,086,750 | 8,69,40,000 |
| 7 | Total economy contribution from NMA Peak climbing teams in this climbing season of Spring 2012 | 7,914,740 | 63,31,80,800 |
Asian Trekking’s Autumn Expedition Team:
Experienced climber from Malaysia Mr. Ravi Chandran Tharumalingam is attempting Mt. Manaslu (5 Sep to 20 Oct).A successful summit will make him the first Malaysian on Mt. Manaslu.
Weidlich is back to attempt the 5th highest mountain Mt. Makalu. A successful climb will be her 7th successful 8000m summit in the Himalayas.
Jan Antook R. Deprez and Marianne J. R. Hesters from Belgium who were members of the Thorang Peak Expedition have successfully summitted the peak on 19-Sep-2012.
On our upcoming expedition trips for October and November, a group of seven Swiss climbers led by our friend Mr. Hans Rauner will be attempting Mt. Himlung. they are scheduled to arrive on the 5th October to Kathmandu.
Also attempting Mt. Himlung are a group of three climbers from Montana , USA. They are scheduled to arrive Kathmandu on the 11th Oct.
Michaela Brunflicker and Wolfgang Wallner from Austria will be climbing Lobuche East and Mt. Ama Dablam in October. Joining the permit and logistics at base camp are Eduardo and friends from Brasil.
As part of their scheduled trips for the autumn climbing season, our Polish friend Ryszard Pawlowski and his team will be attempting Mt. Ama Dablam. the team arrives Kathmandu on the third week of October.
Future Expeditions And Treks
Expedition:
Eco Everest Expedition 3 April – 30 May 2013. Once again Asian Trekking will be organizing the Eco Everest expedition under the leadership of Dawa Steven Sherpa Managing Director of Asian Trekking and Two Times Mt. Everest Summiteer, Mr. Pertemba Sherpa World Renowned climber and sirdar as Base Camp Manager and Nanga Dorje Sherpa as Climbing Sirdar.
International Mt. Lhotse Expedition 03 April – 28 May 2013
International Mt. Everest Expedition from North Side 07 April – 03 June 2013
International Mt. Cho-Oyu Expedition 10 April – 21 May and 01, September – 12 October
International Mt. Shishapangma Expedition 10 April – 21 May and 01 September – 12 October
It is of great pleasure that I take this opportunity to inform you of our special discounted Expedition offers to the following Peaks for 2013. Astrek Mt. Makalu Exedition 07 April – 03 June and 01 September – 28 October 2013.
Astrek Mt. Manaslu Expedition 09 April – 27 May and 02 September – 20 October 2013
Astrek Mt. Ama Dablam Expedition : 15 April – 14 May/ 25 April – 24 May/ 01 May – 30 May / 03 October – 01 November/ 15 October – 13 November/ 25 October – 23 November 2013
Treks:
Everest Base Camp Trek (ATT-211)
Gokyo Ri and Chola Pass Trek (ATT-163)
Gokyo Lake Trek (ATT-213)
Heli Trek (ATT-237) – 9 DAY (ATT-236)
Heli Trek (ATT-237) – 10 DAY (ATT237)
Around Annapurna Trekking (ATT-168)
Around Annapurna – Walk In Besisahar (ATT-166)
Annapurna Sanctuary Trek (ATT-169)
Lantang – Gosikund & Helambu Trek (ATT-219)
Great Himalayan Trail (ATT-235)
60th Anniversary Of First Ascent Of MT. Everest Celebration Trek – (ATT-233)
We felt you would want to hear about this and we are hoping that you take full advantage of these offers. If you require further information about our expeditions please visit our website: www.asian-trekking.com or write to us at info@asian-trekking.com ; Or Skype : astrekdawa
How Is Climate Change Affecting Himalayan Climbing?
Climate change is making a big difference on the mountain, especially in causing more frequent avalanches and rock falls than ever observed in the past. The whole mountain is undergoing drastic changes and that includes the icefall. The climbing route had a lot of exposed rock this year due to the lack of snow cover. There were many instances of climbers being hit by falling rock. Some of the injuries were very serious and needed heli-evacuation.
Another problem that one can link to climate changes is also the fact that climbing Everest and other 8000m peaks are now more and more mixed climbing with more rock exposure. This means that climbers need to be more technically skilled. Also climbing on the rock demands much more energy which may be causing a lot of less experienced/less fit climbers to become easily fatigued and vulnerable to exhaustion and to altitude problems.
Notable Ascents On Climbing Season 2012:
World Record: Ms. Tamae Watanbe of Japan summited Mt. Everest (8848m) on 19th May 2012 with Asian Trekking’s International Everest Expedition Spring 2012 from North Side. Ms. Watanabe; who holds the record of the oldest woman Mt. Everest Summitter broke her own record after 10 years at the age of 73 years 180 days. She has summitted Mt. Everest in 2002 at the age of 63.
Country Record: Dr. Naim Logic became the first Bosnian to summit Mt. Everest. He summited at 9:55 am with NimaKanchha Sherpa2 and Aarita Sherpa.
Country Record: Lovraj Dharmashaktu became the first Indian climbing Mt. Everest 4 times. He summited Mt. Everest on 26th May 2012 with NimaDorje Sherpa.
Sources
I Have Collected And Verified This Information Through 4 Main Sources:
- Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation (Government of Nepal)
- China Tibet Mountaineering Association
- Nepal Mountaineering Association
- The excellent archives of Miss Elizabeth Hawley.
I would like to give my thanks to the various individuals and organizations in verifying the information: Expedition leaders, managers, climbers, sirdars, sherpas and expedition liaison officers.Using the figures and statistics obtained from them I have used my best estimates and calculations to give you the answers above, but any inaccuracies or faults are my own.
Summary
As you can see it was again a good year for mountaineering in our peaks. With more than 3000 climbers coming to our mountain and injecting more than 26.5 Million US Dollars into Nepal’s economy. Very important to note is that it is not just Mt. Everest but also the lower and lesser known peaks that are drawing climbers from around the world to Nepal.
I firmly believe Nepal could be made an even more attractive destination for the climbers and trekkers. The Nepal government needs to focus its efforts on improving infrastructure and trails, streamlining bureaucracy to make it more convenient to obtain permits, reduce permit fees to less popular peaks to promote them, strictly monitor environmental impacts, run regular clean up campaigns, remove the “one-team, one liaison officer” rule, ensure law and order in the remote mountain districts.
Similarly, we expedition operators also need to invest in training our staff, provide good quality equipment, prioritize safety over success, be uncompromising on service quality, stop competing on price (over quality service), promote mountains in remote areas (even though they are less profitable and are logistically complex).
Sherpas and climbers play the biggest role and must act responsibly. They must put safety over success, help others in need, do not steal or use the other climbers equipment and gear without permission, honor the “leave no trace” mentality, follow the rules and laws of the host country even if they disagree and respect the local customs and cultures.
If we all committed to work together on these ideals, I am sure that Nepal could become the best mountaineering and adventure tourism destination in the world. This is very important for Nepal as it would be go a long way in helping to eradicate poverty in our Mountains.
Tourism is one of Nepal’s most important industries, income and employment generator and key to developt the remote mountain regions. It is our collective interest to increase the number of visitors to Nepal and thus formalating appropriate tourism policies to facilate tourism industry and at the same time does not compromise the safty and security of the visitors. We are very deeply involved and committed this vision.
I hope that you find this information interesting and helpful. If you have any questions then please don’t hesitate to email me. Also, if you would like to know more about mountaineering and trekking in the Himalayas then please do get in touch with.
Best Regards,
AngTshering Sherpa
Chairman
Asian Trekking
